How to Verify a Contractor License (2026 Guide)

Last month, a homeowner in Sacramento hired a roofer who quoted $8,400 for a full roof replacement. The roofer took a $3,000 deposit and never came back. When she checked with the CSLB, the license number he gave her belonged to a different company — one that had been inactive since 2019.

She could have caught this in under a minute. Here's how.

Get the License Number First

Every legitimate contractor knows their license number the way they know their phone number. In California, they're legally required to put it on business cards, contracts, estimates, ads, and their truck. In Texas, it has to appear on every written bid.

If someone gives you a business card without a license number, or stumbles when you ask for it, that's your answer. You don't need to go further.

What You're Actually Checking

Running a license number tells you four things:

1. Is the license active? — not expired, not suspended, not revoked. "Active" or "Current" is what you want. Anything else means they can't legally take your job.
2. Does the license match the work? — In California, a C-10 is electrical, C-36 is plumbing, C-20 is HVAC, and a B is general building. A general contractor can't rewire your house. In Texas, electricians and plumbers have separate license types through TDLR — the system is different but the principle is the same.
3. Are there disciplinary actions? — complaints, fines, citations. One minor issue over a 20-year career is different from three complaints in the last two years.
4. Is the bond and workers' comp current? — California requires a $25,000 contractor's bond and workers' comp (or an exemption for solo operators).

A Real Example: What a License Lookup Looks Like

Let's say you're hiring an electrician in San Francisco and they give you license number 826840. Here's what comes up when you search it:

This tells you: the license is active, it's a B (general building) classification — so this contractor can do remodels and additions but not standalone electrical work. If you need an electrician, you need someone with a C-10.

Also notice: workers' comp is "exempt" — that means it's a one-person operation. That's fine for smaller jobs. For a $50,000 remodel, you probably want a company that has employees and active workers' comp coverage.

The Classification Trap

This is the mistake most homeowners miss. They check that the license is active and stop there. But a contractor with a B (general building) license can't legally do standalone electrical, plumbing, or HVAC work. The common classifications:

• B — General Building: remodels, additions, new construction. Can hire licensed subs for trade work.
• C-10 — Electrical: all wiring, panels, circuits. Required for any standalone electrical work.
• C-20 — HVAC: heating, cooling, ventilation systems.
• C-36 — Plumbing: pipes, fixtures, water heaters, gas lines.
• C-39 — Roofing: roof installation and repair.
• C-27 — Landscaping: irrigation, grading, hardscaping.

Texas doesn't use this system. There, electricians are licensed through TDLR (Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation) and plumbers through TSBPE (Texas State Board of Plumbing Examiners). Different agencies, different license numbers, same idea.

Checking Disciplinary History

An active license with a clean record is the goal. But an active license with three complaints in the last year? That's a contractor who might still be operating, but not one you want on your property.

When you see disciplinary actions, look at:

• How recent? — a citation from 2008 matters less than one from last year
• What kind? — a paperwork violation is different from "departed from plans" or "poor workmanship"
• Was it resolved? — fines paid and corrections made are better than outstanding judgments

The One Thing License Records Don't Show

General liability insurance. License records in California show the bond and workers' comp, but not general liability. General liability covers damage to your property — if the plumber floods your kitchen or the electrician's work causes a fire.

You need to ask the contractor directly for a Certificate of Insurance (COI). Then call the insurance company on the certificate to verify it's actually current. Some contractors let their policies lapse but keep showing the old certificate.

Quick Checklist

The whole process takes about five minutes if you do it manually through the state board websites. Or about 10 seconds if you use our license checker. Either way — do it before you sign anything.